Monday, March 22, 2021

Digga Tips - Auger Bits for Drilling in Different Ground Conditions


When drilling in different ground conditions you need the right speed and the right cutting system on the auger bit to suit the different ground conditions. So which auger bit should you choose for your application? For efficient drilling on any machine requires power (torque) and down pressure.

Digga auger bits perform better at an optimal RPM against the ground conditions they are against. Similarly the auger diameter will perform better at certain speeds. For example: the larger the hole and harder the ground conditions, the slower you will need to drill. The smaller the hole and softer the ground conditions, then more speed is required. 

As a general rule we recommend the following RPM/speeds:
55-65 RPM for general earth conditions.
45-55 RPM when drilling in heavy earth, clay or shale. 
20-45 RPM when drilling in rock.
Results will depend on rock hardness, type of auger being used and machine down force.

Digga recommends the following attachments for the different ground conditions:
  • When ‘general purpose’ earth drilling you can drill faster. The Digga A range of auger bits will be ideal here. These auger bits are also better for clay as the bladed teeth ‘shaves’ the spoil a layer at a time. Like scraping butter with a knife.
  • In heavy earth, clay*, soft chalky rocks you want an auger bit with tapered teeth. The Digga RC range of auger bits is the ultimate all performance auger bit and will cut cleanly into earth and chalky rocks. The teeth are tapered to be able to rip the fracturable rocky/earthy ground. *Please note, this range is not ideal for drilling in clay with smaller machines 4 tonne and under.
  • When drilling into rock you are going to be most effective at a slower speed with a greater amount of power. Too much speed creates too much heat and will actually ‘polish’ the rock smooth rather than chipping away at it. Too much speed will also cause the teeth to skip across the top of the rock and it will not be able to pick and rip into the rock to break it out.

For more information on our auger bits visit www.diggausa.com/auger-bits or contact us at (563) 875 7915. Stay up to date with the latest tips & trick by Digga on our Social Media channels.

Thursday, February 11, 2021

How to Replace Rotating Rock Picks on Dedicated Auger Bits

Rotating rock picks, are the auger bit teeth used on our Digga dedicated rock auger bits (DR) for drilling from soft rock to hard fracturable rock.

Here are some things you can observe to determine whether the rock picks are worn: The teeth need to rotate while drilling to maintain an efficient cutting tip. The tungsten tip and tooth should be evenly pointed. Poorly maintained teeth reduce cutting efficiency and wear out faster costing time and money. We recommend you replace worn teeth immediately!

Tip: the outside teeth (C) will wear the fastest as they are travelling the greatest distance so will need replacing more often. Try swapping the outer tooth for an inner tooth to keep the wear even. Always use your best teeth on the outside pockets.

Here are some examples or rotating rock picks in various states of wear.

Tooth A has not been rotating in the pocket and as a result the tooth is uneven and will cut poorly. We recommend changing this tooth. You may also notice if the tungsten tip has been worn down and flattened, we recommend replacing the tooth.

Tooth B indicates that they have been rotating in the pocket and “self-sharpening”. Tooth is good.

Tooth C has been rotating in the pocket and wearing evenly. This tooth is still good but must be inspected regularly as it is nearing its wear life.

In summary, the best course of action would be to remove teeth A and C. Discard A and place C in the pocket vacated by A. Place a new tooth where C used to be.  

Tip: Each time the auger bit is brought out of the hole to remove spoil, use a soft copper or dead blow hammer to tap all teeth ensuring they are rotating freely in their pockets. This will encourage even wearing around the tooth.


Removing Rock Pick Auger Bit Teeth

Rock picks are found on our dedicated rock auger bits. Follow either of the below steps to remove them.

Option 1: Place a rotating pick removal tool in the groove of the rock pick. Use a hammer to strike the tool’s strike point (fig.1) to tap it out. 

Option 2: Alternatively, use a pin punch & soft head mallet on the back of the rock pick to knock it out. (Fig.2)


Installing Rock Pick Auger Bit Teeth

Once removed, clean the pocket and follow the below to replace the tooth.

1. Replace the rock pick and knock it in all the way with a soft head mallet.

Note: Rotating picks must rotate freely. Never use grease or lubricants, as this will cause dirt to bind the rock pick and prevent it from rotating.


Replacing the Auger Bit Pilot

Replacing the pilot is similar on all auger bits and a pretty much foolproof.

1. Move the auger bit into position so the cutting head is easily accessible ensuring it is stable and secure. Remove the pilot by removing the bolts holding it in place and lift it out of place. Once removed, replace it with a new one and secure it with the provided nut and bolt.


Before starting to drill, please ALWAYS ensure that all rock picks and pilot are locked in tight.

Tip: After each day, hose down your auger bit head to remove dirt / dust from around the teeth. Left alone this dirt can become as hard as concrete locking the teeth in place. Next time you’re driiling your teeth won’t rotate and you may be up for new teeth or an expensive repair.


Reach out to us should you have any trouble removing or installing your rock picks or pilot. For spare parts or service enquiries, visit our website or give us a call at (563) 875 7915.


How to Replace Tapered Auger Bit Teeth
How to Replace Tapered Auger Bit Teeth

Tuesday, February 2, 2021

How To Replace Tapered Auger Bit Teeth

Our Digga tapered auger bit teeth are defined by their tapered shape and are used on our earth/rock combo range of auger bits (RC).

Tapered teeth will wear most on the edges above the carbide tip. You may notice the teeth scalloping out around the edges and forming a crease around the tooth.  Please remember that it becomes essential to change the tooth as soon as you notice the carbide tip is either gone, chipped, damaged or cracked.

If you notice excessive wear on a single tip carbide tooth and its pocket – we recommend replacing it with a double tip carbide tooth.

Removing Tapered Auger Bit Teeth

Tapered auger bit teeth are found on our earth/rock combo auger bits. Follow these first steps to remove them.

1. Place a pin punch or centre punch in the hole at the base of the tooth holder.

2. Ensure the rounded side of the punch is facing the bottom of the pocket and the flat side against the base of the tooth.

3. Use a hammer to tap the punch into the hole to dislodge the tooth.

4. Remove the tooth.


Installing Tapered Auger Bit Teeth

Once removed, clean the pocket and follow the steps below to change the teeth.

1. Position the auger bitso the cutting head  is easily accessible. Secure it in place, to ensure it cannot fall.
2. Place the teeth in the pockets ensuring the ridge of the tooth aligns with the ridge of the pocket.

3. With the auger bit tooth placed in the pocket, knock the tooth in with a soft head mallet until the ridge of the tooth is past the top of the pocket’s ridge. Using a standard hammer will shatter the tungsten tips.
4. Ensure all teeth are secured tightly before starting to drill.


CORRECT WAY OF INSTALLING TAPERED AUGER BIT TEETH

Note, that the following configuration of double and single tip teeth, as well as the depth and direction need to be considered too.


Replacing the Auger Bit Pilot

Replacing the pilot is similar on all auger bits and a pretty much foolproof.
1. Move the auger bit into position so the cutting head is easily accessible. Remove the pilot by unbolting it. Once removed, replace it with a new one and secure it with the provided nut and bolt.

Before starting to drill, please ALWAYS ensure that all teeth and pilot are locked in tight.

There you have it. Make sure to always look after your equipment so it keeps running at its best performance. Got questions? Reach out to us should you have any trouble removing or installing your auger bit teeth. For spare parts or service enquiries, head to our website or give us a call at (563) 875 7915.

Read about how to replace Bladed Auger Bit Teeth here.

Sunday, January 24, 2021

How to Replace A-series Auger Bit Teeth (Bladed Teeth)

If your A-series auger bit teeth look anything like the below you should replace them rather sooner than later.

The tungsten tip A-Series Auger bit tooth will wear most on the leading edge of the tungsten. You should see a valley type pattern on the underside of the teeth.

In the following, you will find a guide on how remove and install worn auger bit teeth for A-series auger bits. Need to install tapered teeth or rotating rock picks? New blog entries are coming soon.


Removing Bladed Auger Bit Teeth

Bladed teeth are found on all A series earth auger bits. Follow these first steps to remove them.

1. If a nylon pin (Pinloc) is in place, remove it using a hole puncher or by breaking the pin. Pinloc is available on A4 auger bits only.

2. Place a punch in the groove on the back of the tooth, Tap on the back of the punch with a hammer to dislodge the tooth. This should also release the Rubberloc, if used.

3. If the tooth is jammed or difficult to remove, a pin punch or center punch can be placed at the base of a tooth (to dislodge it), and tapped out with a hammer.


Installing Bladed Auger Bit Teeth

Once removed we move onto replacing the teeth. Are you adding rubber or pin loc for additional hold? Then make sure to check out the rubberloc & pinloc steps below as well.

1. Place the auger bit so the head is easily accessible. Secure it in place, to ensure it cannot fall.

2. With the auger bit hub on the ground and the auger bit head facing up, turn the tooth so that the punch groove is facing up. For a more in-depth illustration, move to the bottom of the page.

3. Place the tooth in the pocket, and knock it in with a soft head mallet. A standard hammer will shatter the tungsten tips.

4. Ensure all teeth and pilot are locked in tight before starting to drill.

While the vulcanized rubber pads will hold the tooth firmly in place for most applications, we recommended that you use an additional method to secure the tooth. The following steps show you how to install the rubberloc and pinloc options.


Adding Rubberloc 

Follow these steps to add Rubberloc for additional hold.

1. Cut the rubber approximately 3mm shorter than the tooth width. Moisten the rubber in water to assist in tooth insertion. Do not use oil. 

2. Insert the cut piece of rubber through the horizontal hole inside the tooth holder. Place the teeth in the pockets.

3. With the auger bit tooth placed in the pocket, knock the tooth in with a soft head mallet.

4. The rubber folds back and compresses between holder and tooth locking the tooth firmly in position.


Adding Pinloc (A3 & A4 series auger bits only)

Follow these steps to add the Pinloc. Pinloc is used for drilling in hard to very hard soils and rock, or for tree roots where reversing the auger bit is necessary.

1. Once the teeth have been replaced according to previous steps, insert the Nylon Pin through the top of the pocket. 

2. Knock the pin in with a soft head mallet, to lock the tooth into place.



Ensure your teeth are installed correctly!

Correct way of installing bladed teeth.

When it comes to installing auger bit teeth, the right direction is crucial. Here’s how to correctly install A-series auger bit teeth.When the auger bit is in its drilling position, the cutting edge of each tooth should be pointing to the ground.


Incorrect way of installing the teeth.

The above tooth has been inserted incorrectly. Flip the tooth so that the cutting edge points towards the ground.


Note, that the following configuration of flat and chisel teeth, as well as the depth need to be considered too.

Installing the Auger Bit Pilot

Finally, removing and installing the pilot is a very simple process as follows.

1. Place the pilot on the bottom of the auger bit (in the center) and secure it with the nut and bolt.

Got questions? Make sure to reach out to us should you have any trouble removing or installing your auger bit teeth. For spare parts or service inquiries, head to our website or give us a call at (563) 875 7915.

Need to replace Tapered or Rock Pick Auger bit teeth? New blog entries are coming soon.





Wednesday, July 8, 2020

When and Why to Service Your Auger & Anchor Drives

To ensure longevity and performance, it is crucial to service your Digga drive unit and change the oil in regular intervals as advised in the operator’s manual. While you might be wondering why, we have got all the answers for you.

When do I need to service my auger or anchor drive?

As advised in the operator’s manual, here is an overview of when to service your drive depending on your operating conditions.
When to Service Your Auger Drive Intervals

Why is gear oil important to ensure the longevity of my drive?

Essentially, the oil in your drive unit is independent to your hydraulic system. Meaning that the oil from your machine does not lubricate your drive unit.

As a result, your auger / anchor drive requires regular oil changes to remain in perfect working condition and to avoid damage to the gears.

What happens if my auger / anchor drive is not serviced regularly?

We have tested 3 drive units in our Hydraulic Cyclic Testing Unit where 10 years of wear and tear was simulated. Oil was changed in the drives at different intervals illustrating the wear caused by neglect. 
The images below illustrate the importance of regular servicing of your auger / anchor drive and what happens if failed to do so.


GEAR IN GOOD CONDITION

This is a gear from a drive which has been serviced as per the operators manual and shows very little wear with no more than bedin wear after 10 years of simulated augering. The oil was changed after 12 months and then every 2 years thereafter as per the operators manual.
 






WORN GEAR

The same drive submitted to the same workload as above over 10 years, with the oil changed only once - at 5 years. While the drive unit shows no decrease in performance, the gear shows visible wear which will deteriorate quickly, leading to total failure.








FAILED GEAR

This drive has never been serviced. The image shows the damage to the gear, which causes total failure of the gearbox.








At Digga we offer ISO 320 Grade Mineral Oil in 1 litre, 2.5 litre and 5 litre containers.

If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to contact us at www.diggausa.com/contact.php or (563) 875 7915!

Tuesday, April 7, 2020

How to Operate A Digga Sweeper Bucket Broom

Having trouble operating your Digga sweeper bucket broom? There are a few tips and tricks when it comes to brush adjustment & height, rotation direction and the broom emptying procedure. We've summarized them for you below.

Direction of travel and brush rotation

Always sweep at a high enough brush speed and low ground speed to effectively discharge the material being swept.

Brush height adjustment

Remove the handle pin, twist the handle, and replace the pin. Re-adjust the axle to the correct height using both handle adjusters. Return handles to their original position.

Correct Brush Height

Set the height of the sweeper brush so the bottom of the brush is approximately 30mm lower than the bucket cutting edge. The brush must be level.

Emptying Procedure

When the bucket requires emptying, stop the rotation of the brush, lift your loader arms and crowd the bucket forward so the Sweeper Bucket Broom hood swings away from the bucket.

Examples of Damaged Sweeper Bucket Brooms due to Incorrect Operation


If not used correctly, damage and expensive repairs can occur to the Digga bucket broom attachment. Below are some examples.


Broom 1 – Worn side rubber and side panel due to too much downward pressure and incorrect placement of the broom to the ground during operation.

Broom 2 – Worn Brush, starting to wear side panel.

Broom 3 – Worn the cutting edge (wear strip) to the point that the floor has started to wear away and edge is now non-existent. New bucket floor is required.

Broom 4 – Brush has been lowered to its maximum wear point and is now out of thread, a new brush is required.

Broom 5/6 – Strong wear to the rubber and side panel due to too much downward pressure and incorrect placement of the broom to the ground during operation.

Please always make sure to read the operators manual before operating your attachments! Should you have any questions, please don't hesitate to contact us anytime at (563) 875 7915.

Wednesday, March 18, 2020

Response to novel Coronavirus (COVID-19)


March 18, 2020


Digga North America is currently monitoring the impacts and concerns associated with the novel Coronavirus (COVID-19) very closely. In line with our core values, we are committed first and foremost to the welfare of our employees, contractors and business partners and we are taking every precaution to prevent the spread of COVID-19 to protect our community.

At this point in time, we are not aware of any significant impacts to our supply chain, however we are working closely with all our supply chain partners to monitor the situation and provide regular updates as necessary.

Given the challenging and evolving situation, we will be implementing new processes and policies as more information becomes available. Digga North America has implemented the following strategies, in line with our global business groups COVID-19 guidelines:
  • All onsite non-essential business meetings are to be postponed or rescheduled online
  • Domestic air travel is limited to essential business trips only by approval of the HR team
  • All non-essential international business travel is suspended until further notice

As a Company, we are closely monitoring the unfolding situation and we are acting on advice and statements from the Government, the Centres for Disease Control and Prevention and the World Health Organisation and following guidelines from these authorities and Federal Health Departments, as required.

Whilst our working conditions may vary over this time, our facilities are operational, and we will remain accessible at all times on via telephone on 563-875-7915, or online at www.diggausa.com.

These are tricky times for all of us, but we remain committed to doing everything we can to support our employees, customers, business partners and communities both in health and safety and day-to-day business operations.






Alan Wade
President

Wednesday, February 19, 2020

When to Replace Trencher Wear Parts

Keeping on top of your Trencher wear parts will prolong their life and keep you working efficiently for longer! So, when should you be replacing Trencher teeth? How do you know they are worn out?
At Digga we have two different tooth options. Have a look at the description and images below.
  • Tungsten Carbide Teeth: once the carbide at the tip of the tooth is gone, the tooth is ineffective. 
  • Cup teeth: once the tip starts wearing back through the tooth and you’ll notice some hard facing – that's when it will start to inhibit the ability of the chain to penetrate the ground.
Consequently, you will be labouring your machine and burning extra fuel. Make sure you exchange your wear parts regularly to avoid working inefficiently.

Further maintenance checks on your Trencher Chain

Whenever you replace teeth make sure to check your bolts as well – you don’t want to risk losing the teeth by re-using worn bolts.

Check all your spacers, make sure there is no fatigue or wear.

Check the bottom of your chain and inspect the rollers, which are also wear-points due to the constant contact of the drive sprocket and nose roller.
We recommend you take your time each day before going out to a job, to carry out these small maintenance checks – you don’t want to get caught in the middle of a job with a break down that’s going to end up impacting your performance on the job!

Got questions? Contact us at (563) 875 7915 or get in touch via infous@digga.com

Thursday, November 21, 2019

Digga Auger Bit Range

The right auger bit for the right ground condition is key to working productively. Here we have a brief overview of the 3 different 'standard' auger ranges Digga manufacture.

'A' or 'earth' range of auger bits

Digga's A auger bits are efficient in cutting through earth, clay and soft ground as it uses flat teeth to peel up the layers. Our A auger bits have 3 teeth options within the range to aid wear; the standard earth tooth, flat carbide tooth or raised carbide tooth option. 

 

'RC' or 'rock combo' auger bits

Digga's RC range of auger bits uses a tapered tooth which can be used on rocky/ earthy grounds. The tungsten tipped teeth helps to rip into the ground. 

 

'DR' or 'rock' augers bits

Dedicated rock auger bits are ideal for bursting into material such as shale or rock. They use a pick tooth to break and fracture into the ground. 

For more information on the Digga range of auger bits visit our website www.diggausa.com or check out some of our videos on YouTube

Wednesday, September 4, 2019

When to rotate picks and exchange your auger wearparts

You will at some point need to replace your auger wearparts, when is dependent on how often they are used, how they are looked after and the ground conditions they are being used.

However, the teeth on your auger bit should be changed as soon as reasonable wear is noticed and before any pocket wear occurs. The productivity of the auger bit will decrease as the efficiency of the teeth wears.

The outside teeth are travelling the greatest distance as they follow the rotation of the circumference of the augers diameter so they will wear out much quicker than those towards the centre. This is because they have not been travelling as greater distance. The most common sign of wear is to the outer tips of the tooth and this wear will follow the radius of the diameter.

If you continue to wear through your outer teeth, you will begin to wear into the pockets and the flights of the auger. It is important to check your teeth regularly to work productively and efficiently. If you find yourself in a remote location and unable to replace your worn teeth right away, try swapping the inside teeth closest to the pilot with the outside teeth so you can continue to work until you acquire new ones.

 You should also regularly check the pilot. If the pilot is worn and cannot effectively penetrate the ground then the rest of the auger will not be able to do its job. It is important to replace the pilot when wear is apparent on the tips. Below are a some images which show different levels of wear to teeth.

Thursday, August 8, 2019

Digga’s range of screw anchor and drilling drives are the ultimate in performance, quality and cost effectiveness. With over 30 years of design and development, working in the field and listening to the needs of our customers to exceed their expectations. All Digga drive units are manufactured in-house by Digga - from the hood on the drive to the gear box and Eaton motor. Our drives feature key design modifications to stand them apart from the competition:

Integrated motor and output housing unit

Our custom designed hydraulic motors were developed in conjunction with Eaton, using Eaton Geroler technology. Not satisfied with an off-the-shelf motor we developed the design specifically for the earth moving industry; significantly reducing the weight and overall length of the drive unit by integrating the hydraulic motor into the actual housing. Merging the motor with the input housing creates a direct connection to the gearset and eliminates the need for several gearbox components. In turn, there are less moving parts and fewer potential leak points. It also means we have been able to position the hydraulic motor ports in a more practical location; maximising manoeuvrability when drilling and offering greater protection to hoses and fittings during transport and storage.

    Less maintenance and a compact design

    Our gearboxes are made in-house. Gears are precision machined from high grade alloy steel, specifically formulated for the manufacture of high performance gears in the earth moving industry. The compact design of our gear set allows for greater length under the drive, for augers or helical pier installation. As our drives can go down the hole they provide added depth when drilling allowing you to work more efficiently.

      Two piece shaft design with the highest side load ratings

      Digga drives have more than double the side load capacity of any other gearbox on the market. Under toque load, the Digga two piece shaft design ensures there is no increased load on the bearings. The bearings do the job they were designed for, efficiently maintaining axial and side loading. Making the Digga shaft a separate component to the planetary carrier, the planetary gears are isolated from the pushing, pulling and bending forces generated by the machine. This is highly beneficial for the operator should there be any side loading; the Digga two piece shaft design ensures there is no increased load on the bearings and the gears are protected, saving you on potential costly repairs. Digga drives have the highest shaft pullout rating in the industry with a heavy-duty custom designed lock-nut, and a lifetime warranty on shaft pullout. two piece shaft design - digga auger drive

      Highest side load ratings

      Digga drives have more than double the side load capacity of any other gearbox on the market. Under toque load, the Digga two peice shaft design ensures there is no increased load on the bearing. The bearings do the job they were designed for, efficiently maintaining axial and side loading.

      Extensive warranty

      With a 3 year motor warranty and 5 year gearbox warranty, our drives are backed with a US Manufacturing Facility.Customer warranty - digga drive unit - motor warranty
      For more information on the different models in our range of auger and anchor drives please visit our website: www.diggausa.com

      Wednesday, August 7, 2019

      The Evolution of Helical Piling

      It is said that the first recorded use of a helical pier was by Alexander Mitchell, a brick maker and engineer from Ireland who coined the term ‘screw-pile’ in 1833.
      Initially the concept of helical piling was used to provide solid foundations for lighthouses in soft soil and provided enough holding power to safely moor ships in the harbour.
      The original helical pile concept cannot be officially confirmed but in the April 1848 issue of the Civil Engineer and Architects Journal the article highlights the mechanics of the bearing power of helical moorings and helical piles which Alexander Mitchell is argued to have introduced: 
      "The origin of the helical-pier was the screw mooring, which was designed for the purpose of obtaining, for an especial purpose, a greater holding power than was possessed by either the ordinary pile or any of the usual mooring -anchor blocks, of however large dimensions.... whether this broad spiral flange, [or ’ground screw,’ as it may be termed] were fixed upon a spindle, and forcibly propelled by rotary motion to a certain depth into the ground, an enormous force would be required to extract it by direct tension"
      It wasn’t long after this that helical piles were being installed all around the coast of England and Ireland and soon after that the method was being exported to the United States of America.
      During Mitchell’s era, the design and application of helical piers was by trial and error and it wasn’t until later down the line that the strategic use of helical piers begins to take place. Helical piers were used to support tension loads, compression loads, overturning moments and combined loading – as we see in many modern foundations today.
      Over the last 60 years while helical piers have often been associated with the electric utility industry as helical anchors for guy wires for poles and towers, they have found their way into nearly every aspect of civil construction: building foundation support for new construction, pedestrian bridges and walkways in environmentally sensitive wetlands and other areas, slope stability repair, tiebacks in temporary earth support, underpinning foundations for temporary structures, foundations for light and signage structures and wind generators, tension anchors for transmission towers and cell towers, underpinning of existing structures, foundations of bridge foundations, and a variety of other geotechnical applications.
      A key feature of helical piers is the ability to monitor the installation of every pile by careful monitoring of the installation torque and rotation as the pile advances. Even though the required installation torque relates to the specific geometry of the pile, including the helical sections and the central shaft, the torque also relates to the interaction between the helical pier and the soil. Therefore, the resulting installation torque record provides a means of direct quality control and assurance that can be used to verify soil conditions at each pile location, as well as to provide an estimate of pile capacity through correlations between torque and capacity. This is particularly important since it is usually not possible to have a soil boring at each pile location. The installation torque provides a specific log of the conditions at each location and allows for adjustments to be made to ensure that the desired pile capacity will be reached. This also means that each pier is tested and in most cases can be used to immediately support design loads.
      Australian screw piling expert and business owner Brodie Houghton of Solidity, told Digga that they see helical piling as the next big shift in building technology, with a much needed flow on effect to both profitability of the building industry and housing affordability in general. Houghton explained: 
      "Builders who are conscientious of project economics are already making the shift to helical piling in hordes. Helical piling [with Solidity*] not only eliminates costly delays to the building program by offering all weather installation ability, but further simplifies the building process by eradicating the need for additional base stage inspections and doing away with dewatering as a concern. Adding to this the reduced material cost of helical pile supply over concrete, helical piling can produce savings of up to 20%* over an equivalent bored pier foundation system."
      There are a number of advantages, Houghton goes on to tell us:
      "When you consider the environmental impact of a project credence is often not given to a well designed and executed foundation system which significantly reduces the wider environmental impact of a project, along with the immediate effects on local ecology. The simple disturbances to the environment brought about by the excavation of 0.5-1CUM of spoil, which is then relocated to either a tipping site, or another area on the subject building site can have massive effects on local flora and fauna. Being that helical piles are a type of displacement pile, there is little to no spoil disturbed during installation." 
      Today, almost any conventional piece of standard excavation equipment, such as a track or wheeled excavator, a mini excavator, a backhoe or a skid steer may be easily fitted with a low-speed, high-torque hydraulic head to provide the required torque for installation. Even in areas of limited access or low head room such as inside the basement of a structure, a small hand-held portable hydraulic torque head and a torque reaction bar can be used to install helical piers inside buildings, providing up to 5,000 nM of torque.
      Digga see the installation of helical piers as a versatile alternative to traditional methods of foundations and as more applications are being found for the use of helical piers they are fast becoming an attractive alternative to traditional cast in place concrete foundations. 
      You can find more information on our Digga Anchor Drives for Helical Pier Installations here
      For further reading on the evolution of screw piling check out this article which we referenced when putting this post together for you: Civil and structural engineer news article.